It's a vision that would melt the heart of the staunchest atheist. And
it must be one of its kinds in the world; at one time, millions of
people walk in Waari- a holy pilgrimage in Maharashtra. It's perhaps,
the world's longest pilgrimage. Remarkable, in over 700 years of waari
tradition, no stampede or chaos has ever taken place.
Waari is undertaken in the Hindu month of Ashadhi Ekadashi.
Every year, millions of devotees walk along the 450-km route from
Alandi (near Pune) to Pandarpur (near Kolhapur) in Western Maharashtra.
They walk with one focus and that is to reach Pandharpur and offer their
respects to Lord Vithal (reincarnation of Vishnu in the form of
Krishna).
The waarkaris (pilgrims) are mainly agriculturists and the majority of
them are poor.After travelling for almost 15-20 days, devotees reach
Pandarpur to meet their favourite God, Vithal. This year Waari started
on June 26 and draws to an end on July 14 th .
A chain of millions of men, women and children walking for miles with non-stop chants of
Gyanba-Tukaram on
their lips, is an incredible spectacle.
Origin and philosophy of waari 
References of waari can be found as far back as one thousand years.
Nobody knows anything about the original waarkaris. According to an
account, parents of 13th century Marathi poet-saint Dnyaneshwar
undertook this pilgrimage. And he did the same, later.
Sant Dnyaneshwar undertook this tradition where all along the route worshippers rendered traditional songs called Abhanga . He used to walk barefoot with a flag in his hands, keeping his fast throughout the journey.
The group is divided into dindi, which is a small group. All dindis combined is called Waari.
Seven centuries have passed, but worshippers from all the corners of
Maharashtra still go for this holy journey. Most waarkaris observe fast.
Some of them even walk barefoot; a spiritual belief propagating that
the path to reach God is chock-a-block with obstacles and hardships.
Devotees of all age groups form the Dindi and celebrate abandoning all
tensions and problems. All the worshippers reach their destination; in
spiritual terms "God", "Happiness" and "Freedom".
In1685, Narayan Baba, the youngest son of Tukaram and a man of
innovative spirit decided to bring about a change in the dindi-wari
tradition by introducing the Palkhi (palanquin), which is a sign of
social respect. He put the silver padukas (footsteps) of Tukaram in the
Palkhi and proceeded with his dindi to Alandi where he put the padukas
of Dnyaneshwar in the same Palkhi. This tradition of twin Palkhis
continued, but in 1830 there were some disputes in the family of
Tukaram, concerned with rights and privileges. Following this, some
thoughtful persons decided to break-up the tradition of twin Palkhis and
organise, two separate Palkhis - Tukaram Palkhi from Dehu and the
Dnyaneshwar Palkhi from Alandi.
Still, both the Palkhis meet in Pune for a brief halt and then diverge
at Hadapsar to meet again at Wakhri, a village near Pandharpur and the
last stop of waarkaris.
Along with times, the popularity of this ancient tradition soared. And a
total of over 40 Palkhis, including Dnyaneshwar and Tukaram, visit
Pandharpur every year. This year 275 registered dindis (it's more if one
counts the unregistered dindis) and 2 lakh devotees are marching along
the route to Pandharpur.
The total number of pilgrims is lesser than the previous year. It is
due to scanty rainfall and high inflation that has made it unaffordable
for poor who normally undertake this pilgrimage after the sowing season
is over.
Foreign visitors' tryst with real India
Barrington de La Roche and Inesa Vaiciute from England specially came
to India to see waari. They were struck by the sheer magic of it. "This
is the real India I wanted to see," exults Barrington who belongs to a
French royal family, settled in England for 100 years. "It's absolutely
fascinating," adds his friend Inesa. This was their first visit to the
country and they couldn't believe their eyes when they saw the
worshippers trekking barefoot with flags in hand and prayers on lips.
They are filmmakers and were introduced to the idea by their 80-year
old Indian friend Basant Chapekar who has lived in England for 63 years.
Chapekar's late mother used to visit India every year for waari. This
year he decided to honour his mother by undertaking this spiritual
journey.
While walking with waarkaris, one undergoes a change
and learns to adjust to any situation; it's tweaking life as you go
along. The foreign couple is so taken in by Indian spirituality that
they do not have much to complain. "It's only the toilets that we have
some problem with," utters Inesa with a smile. As for the cultural
shocks, "It happened when we arrived in Mumbai!" she replied. "We were
so taken aback by the noise, the crowd and the chaos. Here (rural
India), despite the crowd, it's so peaceful," utters Barrington who is
filming the events at waari and intends to make a documentary.
When asked if they had understood anything about the philosophy of
waari they replied, "We are still analysing. Each day, there is someone
who tells us something new about it. Each one comes up with his own
interpretations."
Sixty-four year old Barrington rues, had he
been introduced to Indian philosophy and way of life earlier in his
life, he would not have become a drug addict. "I am clean now but there
was a (dark) phase I went through in my life."
An event the
foreign couple eagerly described was when the dindis arrived at a place
called Jejuri. The dindis reached the Khandoba temple and performed a
"Bhandara". It's a ritual where the waarkaris place the Dnyaneshwar
Palkhi (palanquin) on the steps of the temple and all the devotees throw
turmeric powder on it. A smoke of yellow hue rose in the sky covering
the Palkhi. It was great visual for the camera to capture.
Another event that made them speechless was the game of "Ringan".
Devotees line up on either side of the road and two horses (one with a
flag bearing rider) race across the stretch and then go back on the same
route. This concept was designed as an entertainment to beat the
monotony of tired devotees who walked non stop for 3-4 hours. Another
form of amusement is "Fugdi" which the women play by joining hands and
going round in circle. Such activities refresh and energise the devotees
who carry on the journey with renewed vigour.
No division of caste, religion or status
At the campsite where Barrington and Inesa were staying, few paces
away, sat seventy-five years old Jaitun Bi - bend with age but standing
tall in spirits. Everybody was touching her feet. A Muslim, she became a
Lord Krishna devotee at the age of five and ever since had been going
on waari. She was introduced to this by her guru Sadguru Hanuman Das.
"Being a Muslim there was some opposition by my community. But I felt
this magnetic attraction towards Krishna and threw myself wholeheartedly
into His service," says the woman who faced a boycott by her community
on account of her actions. Pressures were put on her to marry but she
wowed herself to Brahmacharya (celibacy).
Waari knows no divisions of religion or caste says Jaitun Bi who has in
her group several Muslim followers like Lalaji Abdul Sheikh (65) who
does Kirtans and Bhajans (hymns). Jaitun Bi's brother Abbas Bhai too has joined her.
Jaitun Bi, who is fondly called "mataji", belongs to Malegaon in
Baramati district. She first started waari in 1942 when India was under
the British rule. And to honour the Indian Nationalists she began her
first waari by placing a photograph of Mahatma Gandhi in her dindi. In
1947 her dindi was named after her and now it's called Jaitun Bi Dindi.
As Jaitun Bi holds court, fresh smell of chula
made rotis waft through the air. There are several people sitting down
to dinner of simple besan sabji and chapatti. Barrington and Inesa are
invited to join the gastronomic treat, and they gladly accept it.
Inesa, a Lithuanian, looks every inch an Indian in a shalwar-kameez,
plated hair and a bindi on her forehead. She said," I am living with
these women and they treat me like a doll - someone is plating my hair
and gives me tips on various topics. Over here, there is so much care
and love."
There are stories galore when one goes on waari.
One Ganpat Maharaj Jagtap, who lost his eye sight at a young age due to
illness, started going for waari as a young boy. He decided to write the
Bhajans (hymns) in brail so that the blind too could join in the
singing.
Affinity towards all caste, creed and religion is
evident when one walks in the waari. Muslim devotees from North India
used to come for waari, earlier. As time passed it became increasingly
difficult for them to join the waari every year. Hence, they said that
they were finding it very difficult to join waari but their hearts were
in it. Hence, a white flag was assigned to dindi No. 7 as a symbolic
gesture of solidarity with and a mark of respect to their Muslim
brethren.
Though majority of the people walking in the waari
are poor, economic status is not important. There would be an affluent
businessman walking alongside a poor farmer. Maharashtra's forest
minister Babanrao Pachpute who goes for waari every year too was
walking, and it did not disturb the momentum of the group.
Why walk for God?
When asked why they were walking, the waarkaris replied it just made
them happy. Bhakti (devotion) just filled them with peace. A waarkari
walks for the love of God. His focus is to reach Pandharpur, bathe in
river Chandrabhaga, offer Puja to Dyaneshwar's paduka, buy Prasad
(offering from God), go round the main temple that houses Vithal's
deity and leave for his village, where he distributes the prasad among
fellow villagers.
After weeks of walking he does not get to
see Lord Vithal's idol inside the temple because it is too crowded for
everyone to reach the inner sanctum of the temple. Yet, he feels blessed
to have undertaken the pilgrimage to Pandharpur. Waarkaris do not ask
for anything from the Lord.
Life now is easier for scribes
Over the years it has become easier for journalists to cover waari.
Recounts freelance journalist Suryakant Bhagwan Bhise, who has covered
the event for 19 years, "Things were very difficult in those days. There
was no place to rest, bathe, eat or sleep. I have spent a number of
nights in paddy fields, sitting the whole time clutching my bag with my
meager belongings. As time passed, I developed good contacts and started
arranging accommodations and meals for visiting journalists." Waarkaris
set up camp anywhere. And so Bhise too had to follow.
Another
sore point was the communication systems. Over a decade ago Bhise found
it very hard to send his stories to his paper. "My stories used to
reach my paper days later. And they were published after three days of
filing them. I never got to read them."
For long distance
phone call there were only trunk calls that one could make from rural
Maharashtra. Then the STD phone facility made life easier. Gradually,
with the advent of fax and internet, communications channel became so
smooth that the stories began to be filed in real time. Over the years,
media too started taking interest with more and more newspapers and TV
channels sending their reporters for the coverage.
It's not an
easy job. The pilgrimage goes on for nearly three weeks and one can
experience fatigue, get bruised and sore all over.
When 25000 rotis were distributed in a day
Bhise narrates an indent showing the spirit of waari. Wherever the
waarkaris pass his village, people touch their feet calling them "Maoli"
(in the image of mother-father). It's a feeling they associate with
Lord Vithal. And from each home, school children bring five rotis, some
flour (besan) and peanuts to make chutney. They make a dish called
Pithle (with besan) and distribute everything among waarkaris who do not
accept any alms or food from anyone. But there are others in the group,
who join the trek, and they accept it. With each home contributing
food, in a day a mammoth 25000 rotis are distributed in a day. Armed
with the spirit of waari, India may never know food crisis.
Lessons for corporates
A noticeable feature on the walk with waarkaris the similar names of
mobile tea stalls by the road side. All had 'Saagar" emblazoned on them.
It emerged that once someone started a tea stall by that name and since
then everybody adopted the same name. So, there was Saagar tea-stall
galore; a lesson in brand equity for management students!
The
organisation, management and administration of the waari was the brain
child of Haibatbaba Aarphalkar, a lieutenant of Maratha ruler Mahadji
Scindia who designed with military precision the movement of the dindis.
The management, precision and administration of the group is a
lesson that none of the management schools will ever teach in their
course. But, it's a grass root lesson worthy of any education.
Dindis don't wait for anyone or any calamity. Rain, hail storm or VIP
visit, they keep walking. So much so, a practical joke doing the rounds
among scribes was that they were wary of sleeping in one of the tents
pitched by waarkaris because if they are required to dismantle their
tents at 3 in the morning they would do so and move on, leaving the
person sleeping under the open sky.
No. 1 death
There have been incidences of old and infirm dying while walking. The
group stops to arrange for the dead to be transported to its
destination. And if the body remains unclaimed the waarkaris perform the
cremation and move ahead. They never leave them unattended.
Then there is Audumbar Mahadev Chatake who spent 14 years doing waari
and believes if one dies that on this spiritual journey then he is the
lucky one to receive the "Number 1 Death." According to him such persons
must not have sinned in their last seven births. It's only the
fortunate who get this sort of death, believes Chatake.
Fine tuning life
Adjustment is evident at every step. To shield themselves from lashing
rain waarkaris use colorful plastic sheets as it's cumbersome to hold
umbrellas. Everybody makes "adjustments", even when it comes to using
water. Since the
pilgrims are on the move, water is a rare
commodity. A scribe narrated how he was asked to share his glass of
water after he had used it to wash his hands and was about to throw away
the rest.
At campsite, through satirical dramas like bharud,
message like ills of smoking are brought forth. Dindi promotes the
three-pronged philosophy of positive approach to health, environment and
spiritual development.
Business as usual
When the waarkaris move, an entire village moves with them. There is a
barber, grocers and others who walk ahead of the group and set up shop
by the road side. Brisk selling takes place. Kabir Gaekwad (30) from
Solapur sells basic eatables like peanuts and cucumber. Before the group
reaches its destination he moves ahead and sets up shop on the ground.
He buys supplies from the village or town that fall on his way; he keeps
moving all along the route. "This way I earn my livelihood and also do
my waari," says the nondescript man who earns around Rs 3 to 4 thousands
during the pilgrimage.
Spontaneous hospitality
There are people like the elderly Jain businessman Doshi who throw open
their doors for the pilgrims. His mother used to go on waari.
"Twenty-five years ago, inspired by my mother's devotion, I started
serving the pilgrims and continue to do so. Every year, when they pass
by my house, I serve them with food, and allow them facilities like
ablutions in my house."
This impromptu hospitality was seen
right through the road that waarkaris traversed. Quaint houses along the
dusty rural roads had allowed the pilgrims to make use of basic
facilities.
Military like precision
Each dindi is led by saffron-flag bearers. They are followed by women holding the holy plant Tulsi on heads. Following them is a man playing the Veena
. He is followed by another set of instrumentalists playing Mridang and
singing Bhajans (hymns). The rest in the group follow those ahead. Each
dindi is supervised by a Chopdar . Individual Chopdar coordinate with the main Chopdar who is regarded as the supreme commander of the dindis.
He enjoys immense authority. He carries a silver rod in his hand (akin
to a rod of Jutscie). His influence is evident when one sees him in
action. In a 100 acres field where lakhs of pilgrims assemble the
Chopdar raises his rod just once and a pin-drop silence follows. Only
the group with a grievance continues beating the drum. Thereafter, the
Chopdar redresses the grievance of that particular group, and the entire
assemblage moves on.
It takes all sorts to make the world go round
The sight of men and women bathing in the same pond, side by side and
uninhibited was a staggering revelation. No lewd gestures were made and
sexual harassment has never been reported. It is a tribute to the
spiritual level of the waarkaris (pilgrims or devotees). Their thoughts
are so pure that they see no evil, utter no evil and hear no evil.
Undoubtedly, dindis comprise waarkaris with a single-minded dedication
to reach Pandharpur. But there are others who join them on the way. They
comprised the riff-raffs, too who cannot brushing past a woman or
stealthily run away with a devotee's belongings. Though such incidents
do not happen too often, they are not totally unknown. However, no
serious criminal offence takes place and the regular waarkaris keep a
watchful eye to avoid any untoward incident during the pilgrimage.
When the group passes a town the lodges do brisk business; prostitution is known to take place at such times.
Legend of Pandharpur
As per the folklore a devotee named Pundalik lived in Pandharpur. Lord
vithal once went to Pundalik's house to meet him. But Pundalik made Lord
Vithal wait at his doorstep because he was attending to his beloved
parents at the time. The Lord willingly stood outside and waited for
Pundalik to finish serving his parents. The message is that Pundalik
believed in Karama (deed)
being greater than Bhakti (devotion) of the Lord whom he regarded as a
friend. It's a belief that the Lord came to meet Pundalik at Pandarpur
and stayed back. He resides there till date and all his devotees go to
meet him at Pandharpur. The idol of the Lord inside the temple is
depicted in the image of a shepherd clad in a loin cloth.
Dash for Pandharpur
When devotees approach Pandharpur, they make a dash for the temple. This is called Dhaava and even this is so well organised that no stampede has ever been reported.
After worshipping the Lord at Pandharpur a reverse waari starts but
it's a smaller group of people who go back in the procession.
Lord is their Captain
Witnessing the energy of the pilgrims someone remarked that it's the
faith that moves them. Even the city-bred among the waarkaris walk for
miles before resting. In cities, they would not walk 500 meters without
feeling tired. A young man from Mumbai was surprised that he had trekked
with the pilgrims up to 8 km of Dive Ghat and descended 6 km down
without a feeling to give up on the journey. The pilgrims clearly
transcend to a higher plane. And it's an experience that even the
ordinary people undergo.
Vasundhara Sanger
VIDYA SUBRAMANIAN/HT PHOTO 
